Rest assured, installing a door unit does not need to be a DIY expert! All it takes is a little hardware and precision. Before choosing the door unit, you will need to measure the height and width of the table, in other words the location of the new door unit. Note that there are 4 standard door sizes: 63, 73, 83 and 93 cm.
Step 1 - I gather the material
So I need a door block, but also a screwdriver - impact if possible, a meter, a saw (circular or hand), wooden wedges, large screws and a pencil. For finishing, wood pulp and insulation (mineral wool type).
Step 2 - I adjust the height of the door unit
I measure the thickness of the floor taking into account the joists, the floor and the covering. This data allows me to cut the bottom of the uprights of the frames to the right height.
Step 3 - I calibrate
I have to calibrate the door. Calibration consists of leaving a space between the bottom of the door and the floor so that air can circulate. The law provides for a compulsory 18 mm calibration for gas-heated houses. So I measure 18 mm from the bottom of the door and mark the frame. I then cut with a saw.
Step 4 - I fix wooden wedges
I measure the space required between the frame and the board, that is to say the location where I will put the door unit. I cut wooden wedges according to the depth of the wall and I fix them at the level of the hinges.
Step 5 - I fix cleats to hold the door unit in place
I fix two battens at the top and bottom of the board, against the door unit. This step allows you to perfectly align the door unit to the partition. I have to use a clamp to keep everything in place.
Step 6 - I separate the door from its frame
The door frame must be separated in order to fix it in the intended location. For this stage, I have recourse to an assistant to give me a hand.
Step 7 - I screw the door frame frame
I must screw in the area corresponding to the shims for more resistance. The impact driver gives more strength: it's faster and above all, much less tiring! I must use sufficiently long screws (here, 160 mm) or at least 5 cm in the partition.
Step 8 - I put the door
I put the door on its hinges. The screws are visible: I can later camouflage them with wood pulp. Then just paint over it.
Step 9 - I check the spacing
Check that the door opens and closes correctly. I remove the retaining wedges (the small plastic parts on the edge of the door, lock side) to adjust the distance between the door and the frame. I check that the spacing is the same at all levels. I correct if necessary.
Step 10 - I fill the space between the door unit and the partition
The door unit is mounted! It is now sufficient to fill the space on the sides of the frame and at the top with the insulation of your choice.